Morning light drifts through shoji screens as the scent of citrus and sea salt lingers—Azumi Setoda is where Setouchi’s quiet rhythms unfold in their purest form.

Located on the island of Ikuchijima in the Seto Inland Sea, the property emerges from the 140-year-old estate of the Horiuchi family, once salt-barons and shipping merchants. Azumi Setoda sits at the midpoint of the famed cycling route, the Shimanami Kaido, which winds across six islands linked by spectacular suspension bridges, passing fishing villages, citrus groves, and sea views at every turn. Guests arrive through a narrow shotengai, leaving behind the logic of conventional hotels and entering a residence shaped by quiet rhythm and a precise sense of place.

The 22 rooms occupy structures sensitively restored by architect Shiro Miura, who honored the sukiya tradition while allowing each space its own outdoor extension—whether a small garden, balcony or combination of both. Rooms are distinguished by typologies: “Niwa” rooms with private gardens; “Suzumi” with balcony views and cypress tubs; “Sora-suzumi” and “Niwa-suzumi” two-storey configurations. The finishes are deliberate: granite floors that shift temperature with the seasons, yukimi-shoji screens designed to frame snow or sea, sofas at the foot of the bed that substitute for the traditional engawa.

Setoda’s maritime past infuses every meal at Azumi Setoda—once a lively port welcoming Silk Road spices, fine ceramics, and travelers greeted with home-cooked feasts served on treasured plates. Today, that legacy continues through dishes crafted with local Setouchi ingredients and presented on antique Horiuchi family tableware, creating an atmosphere rooted in generations of warm island hospitality. Even breakfast nods to the era when boats crisscrossed the Seto Inland Sea and the Horiuchi family greeted each day amid a bustling port—inviting guests to savour the culture, history, and honest spirit of this remarkable island.

Rather than a conventional “spa,” the property offers access to a local public bathhouse called yubune Bathing just across the street. Complimentary for guests, it features indoor baths, a sauna, and cold bath, and a post-bath lounge called Yuagari for beer, snacks, or quiet reading. Wellness is further supported by guided cycling tours, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, fishing, and private yoga lessons in the wooden pavilion called Azumaya.

What truly sets Azumi Setoda apart is the way architecture and heritage merge with daily habits. The original Horiuchi compound did not simply become a hotel—it was restored with awareness of wind, light, moss, and even the dance of shadows across kakine fencing and gardens. The lemon groves, maritime heritage, and ties to salt and craft aren’t aesthetic touches—they form the property’s very foundation.